Wednesday 20 November 2019

Freedom Challenge - (RASA) June 2019 by Andrew Ryan

Freedom Challenge - Race Across South Africa (RASA) June 2019

Finishing RASA in 2017 was a tremendous relief. Ever since watching a documentary on the first RASA on TV I was infatuated with the idea of participating. I would find myself telling friends, “I’m going to do that race someday” but it was never the right time. There never is a right time, one can always find a good excuse not to enter - I can’t afford 3 weeks off work; my daughter’s in matric, and so on. After about 10 years of procrastination, I finally plucked up the courage and managed to “tick the block” finishing 17 days later in Paarl. During the race I had made a wonderful friend in Gavin Robinson, we rode 16 of the 17 days together. “That’s it, it’s done” I told Gina (wife) no need to worry about that one again. “I’m a blanket wearer now I can relax”. Famous last words!

That was 2017, this blog is about the first 8 days of the 2019 race. But first, what draws you back to RASA? Those who have participated know the answer. I have really battled to explain it. All I know is that within a couple months of recovering from frozen fingers and toes in 2017 my mind started wandering straight back to the Freedom Trail. Bizarrely I found myself telling mates that I wanted to go back and do it again, afterwards I would chastise myself “are you nuts? you have your blanket, shut up, why are you putting yourself under pressure again?”. It wouldn’t take more than two beers at a braai and I would start thinking about it, talking about it, dreaming about it, feeling like I really really had to go back. I would lie awake at night thinking about the route, clicking through the support stations: Allendale, Centocow, Ntsekeni, Glen Edward, Masakala, Malekgolonyane, Tinana, Vuvu … as if I was counting sheep! Eventually I would envisage myself arriving at Diemersfontein outside Paarl looking thin and feeling happy. My mind would then wander to the navigation…….turn left after the school, don’t forget to get a coke at that spaza, look for the bokkie sign, fill your bottle here, jump the fence there, look for the windmill, eventually drifting restlessly off to sleep having gone through the entire route in my mind but not before thinking about what I would do better and what kit I would take next time. What next time? If I need another damn blanket, I’ll bloody well buy one at Pep! 

But the Freedom Challenge addiction eventually won. I couldn’t be satisfied with one blanket I needed two. I have two children, each must have a blanket! Late in 2018 I took the plunge again and entered but not before I had persuaded my good mate Renier van der Merwe (Van) to join me for his first race and oh yes, I also convinced poor Gavin back for his third (he has 3 children ;). My plan was for us to knock it off in 15 days at worst 16. I knew I could take a day off 2017, piece of cake. Little did I know.



DAY1- PMB-The Oaks-Allendale-Centocow 151kms
Although RASA is a solo race participants are allowed to ride together and assist one another as fellow racers. Van, Gavin and I had a pact that we would stick together the entire race unless one of us was unable to continue. Our batch set off from PMB town hall at 06h00 on 9th June 2019. We arrived at Allendale by +-16h00 after the big slog through the Umkomaas valley. The race consists of a variety of different terrains, 99% being off road using dirt roads, jeep tracks, foot paths, no paths, loads of portaging and of course you have to navigate it all without GPS using only a narrative and a 1:50 000 topographical map. It is not normal mountain biking, there is no water table, no mechanic at the end of the day, no medical tent. A great deal of time is spent checking the route, jumping fences, carrying your bike on your back the general rule of thumb is 10km per hour (even for the top racers), the terrain or weather alters your pace all the time.

I was adamant that we were going to knock off 150kms and reach Centocow mission on Day 1. Van was unexpectedly cramping at 60kms and Gavin was, by his own admission, “not good” but they gritted their teeth and we persevered to Centocow. At sunset I caught a glimpse of Gary, one of the other racers in our batch, a couple of hundred meters behind us in the Sani2C forests before Donnybrook, but he never caught us up. We eventually arrived at Centocow at 21h30 after a very solid 15.5-hour first day effort. I was tired but happy that I had navigated the tricky Centocow forests at night perfectly. An hour later, still no Gary. After telling the mission ladies that there was another rider on the way and wondering to myself why Gary hadn’t pitched, I went to bed. 

DAY2-Centocow-Ntsekeni-Glen Edward 91kms
I’m not an early starter and woke up at 05h00 to start breakfast. There was Gary looking rather bedraggled. After questioning him about why he didn’t arrive last night after us, he told me his free body broke (random event) in the Donnybrook forest. First, he phoned his missus for help, then he slowly made his way to Donnybrook. In no time at all, his wife rustled up an old wheel from a friend and drove it that night to Donnybrook from Hillcrest (brave lady) which then allowed Gary to get into Centocow at 01h30.He had also given her his malfunctioning wheel with instructions to get it fixed and make sure it got to Chris Fisher (race organiser) before he left PMB so that Gary could get it back from Chris later in the race. The race organisers leave PMB after the last batch and follow the race down the route to Paarl. Gary had to serve a 4-hour time penalty at Centocow for outside assistance. After some commiseration, we set off hoping to reach Masakala.

Day2 was pretty uneventful, the big climb up to Ntsekeni took until lunch and then in the area of Politik kraal Van started complaining that his big toe was hurting him. We duly removed the offending toe nail and then jointly decided to stop at Glen Edward after an 11 hour effort - no one was in the mood for an additional 6 hour night ride to Masakala.

This is probably where my trouble with 2019 started. The farmers at Glen Edward are lovely people and made us feel right at home but that night I just couldn’t sleep, 2am came and went, 3am, then 4 and we got up at 05h00. I genuinely did not sleep. I had lost a whole night! Feeling very sorry for myself I wondered how I was going to ride 13 hours to Malekgoloyane with no sleep? Gremlins find easy passage into the minds of tired men, gremlins told me it would be SO easy, just pick up the phone to wifey, she was only 3 hours driving distance away, I would be in my own bed that night, it would be so embarrassing but so what? Thankfully gremlins didn’t last long, with a bit of sympathy from my buddies and words to the effect of suck it up, they vaporised and out into the sub-zero Swartberg morning air we went. 

It was also at Glen Edward that we heard the sad news that Gavin’s mother in law was very ill. Gav started wondering whether she was going to live long enough to allow him to complete his race or whether he would need to withdraw and go and support his wife. I could see the quandary etched all over Gavin’s face - he’s a family man through and through. 

DAY3 Glen Edward-Masakala-Malekgoloyane -114kms
Grinding away on the district roads about an hour after departing Glen Edward Gav asked me if I was still grumpy from not getting any sleep. My answer was that it was entirely my choice whether to scowl or smile and that I have chosen to smile, ”that’s a good boy Andy” Gav told me. We passed through Masakala (not far from Matatiele) at lunch and by 18h00 the 3 of us were at Malekgolonyane chowing chicken and rice. It had been another long day on the saddle but I had survived it and actually hadn’t felt that bad considering. 

There is signal at Malekgoloyane so Gav decided to satellite track Gary (all racers carry satellite tracking devices) who had made excellent time. His “dot” was on the mountain ridge line above Malek at +-16h00. That would mean he should arrive any time now. But by bed time at 21h00 there was still no Gary? What is with this dude man where is he again? That would be twice in 3 days that he is out there alone and doesn’t arrive when we expect him to! Rural East Griqualand is not a place I fancied getting lost in at night. Its wild country, you are very far from help, good motivation to make sure you reached the support station in daylight. I saved Gary a bed next to me and chucked some bedding on it, knowing that that if he arrived some time during the night, he could just climb straight in. Suddenly I startled awake, Gary had arrived at 01h00 (this guy likes the wee hours!). On asking him where the fo0k he had been, he told me he had been lost in the wattle forest before (the abandoned) Gladstone farm for about 7 hours. Black wattle forests are nasty and have been the cause of many a problem riding at night, they are dense and very dark, everything looks the same at night. It’s easy to go around and around in circles. Gary’s answer was to stop and make himself a brew on his high-speed boiler. He regrouped and eventually found his way out, what a boytjie! Gary thanked me for keeping a bed handy for him and we both went to sleep.

DAY4 Malekgolonyane -Tinana mission - Vuvu - 65kms
Next morning, we set off for Vuvu. It’s a short day in kms but very difficult terrain makes the going very slow. After 6 hours the route leads to a big mountainous drop into the dusty bowl that is Tinana mission. We were chilling next to the stream that runs through Tinana (where the small suspension bridge was, which is now washed away) eating our padkos and Gary arrived and sat about 50m away on his own. “Jirre this oke is painfully shy” I thought to myself and waved to him “come and join us Gary”. He did, then I suggested he ride the rest of the day to Vuvu with us to which he surprisingly agreed (random event). I knew a group of 4 was too big but hey who is counting? Gary had been on his own from the start and he had already had 2 shit luck episodes. I sensed that he may need some companionship and his spirits lifted. It was on the other side of Tinana mission that I realised I had made a very bad choice in riding glasses, they were cheap, useless, rubbish - a bad mistake at attempting to save money on my part, only 4 days in and already scratched and falling apart with thousands of kms to go. 

After an 11 hour day finishing with the final 11 km haul up the desolate but beautiful Vuvu valley we arrived at the remote village perched on the mountain side to bad news. Gav’s mom in law has passed away. He immediately made his mind up, he would withdraw (random event) at the next support station in Rhodes where his wife could pick him up on her way to the Cape from Jhb to bury her mother. I was very bummed for Gavin and his family. I also cursed our luck knowing that my navigation further down the route was weak between Hofmeyer and Jakkasfontein, that was to be Gavin’s section to navigate and would also be sorely missed on that score. 

Vuvu is always an interesting experience in that you have a wonderful warm bucket wash and spend the night in a local’s kraal. They literally vacate their beds for you. You really get a close and personal experience of the life of a rural South African villager. With the powerful Tina and Vuvu rivers a couple of hundred meters below the village on either side, it blows my mind that Vuvu does not have running water.

DAY5 Vuvu – Rhodes - Chesneywold -121kms
We departed Vuvu at the usual 05h00 and rode the 8km district road bit to the start of Lehanas which is the longest portage of the race. Half way up the 5.5km mountain scramble, negotiating a slippery rocky section before the shepherd’s hut, I face planted and smashed my 2000 lumen bike light. Eeish glasses are kak and now no powerful bike light. We decided on the tiger line route over the top of Lehana. On the summit we built Gavin’s mom-in-law a cairn. On the way to Rhodes Gav offered me his glasses and his bike light. That offer quite possibly saved the race for me. I had another much weaker helmet light but there is no way I could have ridden the balance of the race without riding glasses especially with what was unknowingly in store for us in the future - 12 days of howling dusty headwind! Sadly, we said our goodbyes to Gavin at Rhodes and suddenly it was Van, myself and now Gary making up the threesome. 

Summiting Lehana on the Tiger Line-it’s a good slog!



The weather can change so quickly-the photo above and this one were taken within 10mins of each other , here we are building a Cairn for Gavin’s mother in Law on the top of Lehana (altitude 2710m very close to the highest point on the race), you can also see just right of us in the back ground the blue container that everyone aims at from the bottom of the mountain

On the long cold 68km night haul to Chesneywold farm (vicinity of Barkley East) Gary started opening up. Turns out Gary was one of the 2 navy divers who had evacuated the passengers off the sinking Oceanos in raging seas off the Transkei coast in the early 90’s. As you grind away at the distances each day you are more than happy to listen to a story to pass the time (and take your mind off the suffering). I remembered the saga of the Oceanos and I begged for the story to be told in blow by blow detail. Gary delivered in his usual quiet and unassuming way. It was a fascinating and heroic tale, every passenger on the ship survived. The story ended well, although Gary had thought on a few occasions that “his ticket was punched” he survived the ordeal and was awarded one of the Navy’s most prestigious medals for valour (Honoris Crux Silver). Besides the fact that Gary had already endured 2 freezing late nights (out of 4) so far on this race, after listening to that story it became very apparent to Van and I that Gary was not to be underestimated. The temp was -8C on the final 10 kms valley descent down to the farm, we arrived cold and fatigued to a warm farm kitchen after 17 hours on the bike at 22h00.

 We also established during that night ride, that Gary happened to know Arthur Limbouris (random coincidence) who was Van’s business partner but most importantly Arthur had agreed to be our “go to guy” in case of needing emergency support at some point on the race if the race organisers couldn’t help.

DAY6 Chesneywold – Slaapkrans - Moordenaarspoort - 95kms
Leaving Chesneywold is was cold, f0ken koud! Little did I know that this day was going to be one of my hardest days in endurance sport. We had planned to ride to 135kms Kranskop well aware that 2 big obstacles were in play that day – the Slaapkrans portage and the climb up and down Luiterbrondt. The morning temperature was -6.5C at 5h30. 

On the subject of cold (in my opinion) morning cold is definitely worse than evening cold which is why I prefer late starts and late finishes. In winter at best you get 11 hours of daylight to ride in, either way on most days you are going to start or finish in the dark if you are pushing for 16 days, so why ride during the coldest part of the day being early morning - rather ride into the night surely? Riding in the cold on a bicycle is obviously exacerbated by the wind chill. In 2017 we had -11C one evening on the way to Brosterlea which was ridiculously cold - nothing helped! Dressing for defence against extremely cold temperatures is as follows: cycling bib –shorts, skin tight thermal under layer, wool T shirt 200g, wool long sleeve 260g (100% wool garments can be ridden in day after day and does not pick up body odour as it is a natural product), fleece lined wind breaker, extreme cold water canoeing jacket, buff, skull cap with ear warmers, -20C rated gloves, fleece lined (leg) cycling tights, wool socks, seal skinz thick waterproof socks, Shimano Gortex riding boots. From time to time nature calls usually in the morning at the wrong time ….you need number 2 – bib shorts means everything must come off until you are stark naked - you can’t just pull your pants down!

We hadn’t ridden far, about 4 kms, after crossing the Barkley East tar road the trouble started. Gary’s rear shock completely collapsed. We fiddled and faffed around but there wasn’t much we could do so after about 20 minutes of failed attempts to fix it we rode on. Then 5 minutes later my front shock collapsed! More fiddling more time lost. What is it with shocks this morning? (Later we found out severe cold can cause rubber shock seals to contract letting the air out) We did not have a shock pump. Annoying to have 2 shocks collapse suddenly but not the end of the world. We rode on, Gary leaning back, me leaning forward and arrived at Slaapkrans farm at midday hoping the farmer was around. No such luck, just his young daughter and no shock pumps to be found, compressed air didn’t work either. Leaving Slaapkrans behind, we pushed up the steep Slaapkrans portage and then made our way slowly down to the Luiterbront area knowing the big Luiterbront climb awaited. After some dodgy navigation and getting ourselves slightly lost, then several hours of ascent, we eventually neared the top, found the foot path that took us to the summit and then started the very rocky, treacherous and unrideable footpath descent. Towards the bottom there is the odd place you can ride. I was a bit ahead of the other 2 and noticed my chain was doing an odd flicking movement when I free wheeled. As I got to the cultivated field at the bottom and started riding in earnest, I realised I had a big problem - my free body was gone (random event). Every time I stopped pedalling the bloody chain jumped off!

To say I was pissed off is an understatement. Pre-race I had carefully gone through the bike with mechanic and we had replaced just about every moving part. The last thing I wanted on the race was a major mechanical. We had agreed that the hub was a good quality Stans, the mechanic had opened it up and was satisfied that it looked fine. That was literally the only moving part we didn’t change or upgrade on the bike!! At the water tank at the bottom of the Luiterbront descent we stopped to take stock. Van then showed me the bottom of his shoe. The entire cleat had pulled out of the sole of the shoe, just a hole in the sole where the cleat was meant to be and the cleat was in the pedal. His shoe was an impossible fix! Suddenly and in the space of 20 mins, 2 potentially race ending mechanical problems had happened simultaneously! (random coincidence).

Those that know the RASA route would probably agree with me that this particular area was probably one of the worst places to have a major mechanical. You really are miles from any chance of getting a spare part quickly. Rossouw was 30kms away but that meant nothing. If the earth needed an enema Rossouw is where they would put the hose pipe. From 2017 I remembered it had 1 spaza shop and a police station. It was now 17h00 and we had 30 mins of light left. We had to come up with a plan fast. Gary suggested that he ride ahead to get help and that we follow as best as we could. We were unsure if there was signal in Rossouw, Gary would get there first and because we knew that we had big trouble on our hands he would immediately give Arthur Limbouris our back up support a distress call for help. We needed a new wheel and new size 13 shoes not a small ask! He would also update Chris Fisher, the race organiser, that we had problems. Off Gary went and then Van and I started limping to Rossouw.

Not sure if anyone has had the pleasure of riding a bike with a broken free body and a flat front shock? The difficulty is that you have to pedal constantly, uphill, or downhill against the brakes, if you don’t the chain is off. Van was riding with 1 shoe clipped in, neither of us had much of a sense of humour. We couldn’t see how we could avoid a major delay of many days whilst we waited for spares. At about 19h30 we reached Rossouw. There was no bloody signal. We decided to head for the police station. Gary was nowhere to be seen, in fact there was no one in the entire godforsaken town. Entering the police station, we found 1 cop on duty. He was very pleasant and gladly offered their landline. 

We mulled over the permutations. I must emphasize here, very tired brains don’t do permutations well. The way we figured it, to get size 13 shoes to Moordenaarspoort farm (next support station) would take a minimum 72 hours if you can find them at all (you don’t find decent quality size 13 Mtb shoes easily remembering that it can’t be any old shoe type, they had to be good for hiking and cold weather or you will pretty soon develop feet problems). To get a new wheel – maybe a bit quicker perhaps from Kokstad? We could not fathom how we could actually continue the race with such long delays. We were literally fuc7ed by the fickle finger of fate! 

The combination of being extremely fatigued and emotional leads to bad decisions. We both felt utterly deflated and defeated, it was 20h00 and we had already been on the road for 14.5-hours that day. Reluctantly we decided that we would rather withdraw than sit around waiting for spares for (maybe) 3 days? Like I said, bad decisions. Looking out the window a storm was kicking off and a cold icy rain started - that was the final straw. Using the police land line, I phoned my wife, Gina, first and then Van phoned his wife, Jenny, to deliver the bad news. Then, I phoned Chris Fischer (race organiser) and told him we were out. He tried to dissuade us but we were adamant we had no option but to bail, there was no way we could continue without a major delay and how would a courier company find us anyway?

What we were unaware of was that Gary had ridden up the mountain road outside Rossouw hoping that there would be signal on higher ground. Luckily (random event) it turned out he was right. He found a weak signal but managed to call Arthur and gave him a summary of the situation. He had to speak quickly as the storm was gathering momentum and it started sleeting.  Subsequently Jenny had also gotten hold of Arthur and told him about our decision to bail. 

Back at the police station the phone rang, we hadn’t moved and we weren’t going anywhere anyway whilst the rain poured down outside. Our hope was to bum a ride to Barkley East the next morning from where, with our tails between our legs, we could be collected. Policeman answered and said the call was for me?! It was Arthur. On answering I received what can only be described as a very stern and forceful bollocking for even thinking of bailing. Anyone who knows Arthur also knows it’s not a good idea to disagree with him! Arthur said that he had already found shoes. Luckily Shimano happened to have 1 pair of the right type shoes in size 13 and they were in CT (random coincidence). Art had persuaded the Shimano boss to open up his warehouse, he also managed to get hold of a wheel set and told me that the shoes and wheels would be leaving Cape Town asap courtesy of Steve, one of his business managers who was willing to leave immediately and do the monster drive to us! The kit would be with us by the following afternoon. I couldn’t believe our luck! We were back on! I asked Arthur to deliver them to Kranskop farm and to get the co-ordinates from the race organisers. We hoped to be able to limp to Kranskop by the next afternoon even if I had to push my bike. Then I called Chris and asked permission to enter back into the race given that we had not yet broken any race rules. He agreed that we had not transgressed and granted us permission to continue. 

In much better spirits we exited the police station in the rain which had lightened up a bit and began the 6km climb up the red mountain road toward Moerdenaarspoort farm 12 kms away. Half way up the mountain the storm returned, this time it meant business. It rained so hard that our lights reflected off the rain drops causing a sheet of light that made seeing difficult. It’s tricky keeping those pedals turning going down steep hills on a muddy slippery district road against the brakes, just stop rotating that crank for a moment and instantly the chain is off! Punishment for letting the chain slip off is to stop in the freezing rain, take your -20C rated warm full length gloves off and put the chain back on. Eventually your fingers are numb and even that simple task becomes quite difficult causing more time to be lost in the rain and mud. 

We reached Moordenaarspoort farm at midnight and must have looked like filthy drowned rats. Gary was waiting inside the support station. He immediately made us a warm drink. I was extremely grateful to be out of the bone chilling rain and wind. Drinking something warm was ecstasy and slowly as we dried and got warm the shivering subsided. Most importantly Gary had good news, besides calling Arthur from the top of the mountain, he had also managed to call Chris Fisher who agreed to detour to Moordenaarspoort. Chris had Gary’s original wheel (the one that had failed back in Donny brook and then had been repaired) with him in his bakkie. Gary would put his original wheel back on his bike then I could take over the substitute wheel his wife had borrowed from a friend which would fit my bike set up. Great! Now we only had a shoe problem to deal with, things were looking up. After a 19 hour day from the pits of hell we finally went to sleep.

DAY7 Moordenaarspoort - Kranskop 38kms
We woke to a howling north west wind that had followed in the wake of the storm system. Lounging around luxuriating in the fact that we were able to rest and didn’t have to ride whilst we waited for Chris was heavenly. You don’t waste the time though, you fix kit, clean kit, attend to sore bits etc but thankfully for a change you are not on the saddle. Chris arrived at +-09h00.We quickly swopped the wheels out and set off for Kranskop at 10h00 given that the timer on our 4 hour day time penalty for outside assistance was already ticking from 6am. There wasn’t the normal level of pressure to keep moving as we only had to ride 38kms to Kranskop where we would hopefully wait for the arrival of the shoes. 

Nature had decided that there was going to be no rushing in any event as we were riding against probably somewhere in the region of a 70km/hr headwind. The 38kms that should have taken 3 hours took 5 hours but that’s still a very short day on RASA. At times I felt like getting off and pushing the bike the wind was so strong. Silently I thanked Gavin for his glasses – without those glasses my eyes would have been sand blasted. We reached Kranskop farm mid-afternoon. Again, there was no signal so we couldn’t find out about the inbound shoes. We had faith in Arthur but we waited and wondered. At 19h00 a white golf arrived - it was Steve with the shoes! He also had the wheel set and a shock pump. I now had Gary’s substitute wheel on my bike so didn’t need the wheel Arthur had sent nor did I want another penalty, besides we thought it may not be the most sensible idea to start changing clusters from one wheel to the other. Then Chris Fisher arrived unexpectedly at Kranskop (random event). I asked him to keep the wheel set Arthur had sent in his bakkie and that I would get it from him at the end of the race. We thanked Steve profusely before he left on the long drive back to Cape Town, he told us that he had had to drive the golf really slowly in case he blew a low profile tyre on the rough dirt roads. It had taken him 20 hours to find us, I was amazed that he had! Between the penalties and the time lost due to the mechanicals we had lost a full day but we had dodged a large bullet. That surely was the end of our mechanical problems?

DAY8 Kranskop – Brosterlea - Romanfontein 121kms
The north wester continued to howl the next morning but we were in good spirits. Our problems were behind us now and we could focus on catching up some of the lost time, wind or no wind. About an hour later as I applied power, I felt the pedal slip. On closer inspection I realised that the smallest ring on the rear cluster (of the substitute wheel) had stripped. After a small amount of cursing I accepted that I had now lost 1 gear of 12, not the end of the world, the other 11 will still get me to Paarl. We rode on into the blasting north wester reaching Brosterlea support station mid-morning. 

A couple of hours after leaving Brosterlea my gears started jumping. The substitute wheel cluster was a 3-piece cluster as opposed to a single cluster machined from one block of metal which is the much stronger option. I would never have chosen a 3 piece for the race as I knew they were prone to movement but beggars could not be choosers. The stripping of the small part component of the 3-piece cluster had now allowed movement to occur and the 2 bigger component pieces of the cluster with the balance of the bigger gear rings were wobbling badly! Essentially the cluster was disintegrating and the chain was jumping from one gear ring to the next. All the power of the pedal stroke goes through the drive chain and is then transferred to that cluster, no way it would last to Paarl in that state. I just couldn’t believe it, another major mechanical the very next day. Someone is taking the piss, can’t be! Again, we were signal-less so we couldn’t phone. Again, we were miles from the next support station being Romansfontein. Again, this was potentially a race ending mechanical. 

It was a very stressful ride 50-odd km ride to Romansfontein. Although I had to be very careful with my gear changing, I could still ride the bike although I expected the whole cluster to collapse and fall apart at any moment. But it didn’t. 

Closer to the support station we found a signal and called Chris. I knew he had my old wheel and the wheel that Arthur had sent. We could take my original cluster off my old wheel and put it on the new wheel Arthur had sent. That would work and I’d be back in business but only if Chris was still somewhere in our vicinity. Lady luck was on my side again. Chris had decided not to drive further down the race route like he had originally planned, he was actually at Romansfontein (random coincidence) filming the race and could assist!

One of the first things you do when you arrive at a support station is collect your 2lt ice cream box. These are boxes you have packed with food and spares that you use on the race that have been shipped to each support station in advance by the organisers. In every one of my boxes there was a message of encouragement from home courtesy of the females in my family, wife, mother and 2 daughters. It had been another nerve-wracking day not knowing whether I was going to be forced out the race by mechanical problems.

Arriving at Romansfontein Chris and his cameraman were incredibly kind and volunteered to swop the cluster and wheel for me, I think they could tell I was totally wasted. Whilst I wearily watched them work on my bike, I opened my 2lt box and in it was a message from my youngest daughter Amy. As I started reading the note I suddenly felt completely overwhelmed. Embarrassingly the tears flowed freely. I think that the night’s sleep that I missed, the long days we had put in and the stress of being out of the race and then the relief of being back in it twice had finally caught up with me. Gary and Van stuck with me whilst I served another 4 hour day time penalty the following morning. We accepted that 16 days was probably no longer on the cards. We had lost one and a half days of riding time but we had dodged bullet number 2!

I am going to end this story here although there was another 10 days and 1400kms that followed. I had no further mechanicals on the race not even a puncture. I had problems with my stomach, probably from drinking farm water and we had another 9 days of strong headwinds but that didn’t stop us and we reached Paarl in 18 days.

Day 6 and 8 will be etched in my memory forever. When you think you are defeated, RASA taught me that you are not. When you feel despair, RASA shows you that human beings are resourceful and compassionate and will lift your spirits. When you are missing your “normal” life, RASA teaches you to patiently await its return. Gavin’s withdrawal helped fix critical kit issues. Gary, with his wheel problem that ended up causing him to ride with Van and I which in turn allowed him to make that call to Arthur which saved our race. Arthur, his incredible support and resourcefulness, Steve dropping everything and racing off to find us in the middle of nowhere, Van’s companionship and level head throughout, Chris going the extra mile and being in the right place at the right time twice. A combination of so many helpful genuine human beings along with several random events and coincidences pulled it all together.





In life, any significant event that places you far outside of your comfort zone, may also have a similar effect on you. RASA has certainly helped me deal with stress. I can handle not being in control far better. I think back to those days in the high Eastern Cape mountains whilst I sit here on Lockdown not knowing and uncertain about our future lives. But I have hope and faith that in the new and unknown world that we are entering, the human spirit and resourcefulness will shine through. That in adversity we will unite, show more compassion towards one another and win through in the end. Freedom Challenge - Race across South Africa is difficult but doable for any relatively fit person with a sense of adventure and willing to be out of their comfort zone. My personal take from both 2017 and 2019 was that it underlined the fact that life is completely unpredictable: life is a compilation of random events subject to the law of attraction. In the present moment we often do not see random events for what they are. But as we get older, we mature, look back at our lives and possibly come to the conclusion that it is how we responded to those random events that has shaped our life’s journey. 
Andrew

Wednesday 31 July 2019

Race to Rhodes 2019 || Highlight Reel - by Nicholas Louw


A few highlights from the 2019 Freedom Challenge Race2Rhodes I did with my dad.

Read Nic's full and brilliant blog post with incredible images HERE

Tuesday 30 July 2019

Desirable Difficulties and Simple Pleasures on the Freedom Trail - By Greg Fisher

“In our modern age, we yearn for authentic experiences where our courage must be summoned. One way we do this is by willingly under-taking extreme physical challenges. Through these experiences...we drop our pretenses, ego, and arrogance in favor of truth and transformation. We fulfill our intention to be authentic.” -- writes author Amy Snyder in the ultra-endurance cycling book “Hell on Two Wheels.” 

As I trudged up the steep rocky incline of a path, with my bike on my shoulder, the sun beating down on my neck, and my cycling cleats making irritating clanking noises as they collided with stones every time I took a step, I thought about how different this experience was from what I usually expect when I go out to ride my bike. I am mostly a “fair-weather” rider. I like to know exactly where I’m going before I head out (preferably with GPS to help guide me); I calculate precisely how long it should take; I examine the weather forecast so I can dress appropriately: if it’s likely to be too hot, cold, wet, miserable or dark, I usually opt for the indoor trainer instead. 

But here I was, late in just the second day of a planned 475km, 6-day race (read: ride) from Pietermaritzburg to Rhodes covering some of the gnarliest and most difficult to navigate terrain that one could imagine, as part of The Freedom Challenge Race to Rhodes. The previous day I had spent 11 tough hours on the trail, 3 of which entailed bushwhacking through the thick, overgrown, thorny brush at the bottom of the Umkomaas Valley and another 2 climbing the long, steep ascent out of that same valley. On this, the second day of my ride, having already spent 8 grueling hours on the trail, I still had at least 4 more to go to reach the second overnight stop at Ntsikeni Nature Reserve in the foothills of the Drakensberg in Southern KwaZulu Natal. And the path just seemed to keep going up; it felt like we had been climbing forever. Everything about what I was doing was tough, challenging, and uncomfortable. For a few preceding hours, I had been in a deep pain cave. Then all of a sudden I came to the realization that this is actually awesome - a real privilege: “I am out in the middle of nowhere, seeing parts of the country that almost all South Africans will never get to see, I am suffering a lot, but it is making me feel alive and focused. How can I reconcile this?” I wondered. “How can I feel so tired, so depleted, so uncomfortable, and so uncertain about what I still need to do, yet also so excited and engaged?” It was then, in my mental wanderings, that I was reminded of the concept of ‘desirable difficulties’ - the idea from learning theory, that suggests that when a task is extremely challenging and difficult, to the point that it is usually uncomfortable, it often generates new insight, perspective, understanding to the point of becoming enjoyable. Here I was experiencing this for real, with my bike, on the trail. The difficulties of the Freedom Trail - hike-a-biking, navigating; taking many hours to cover just a few kilometers; arriving at support stations after dark and then leaving before light; getting hungry, thirsty and tired - all made the experience rich, intense and, dare I say, fun. They prompted me to learn things about myself that I would not have otherwise learned. They engaged me, forced me to be present, and to focus on the task at hand. They made me feel alive! 




Coming to the realization that the extreme difficulties of the trail were actually quite desirable quickly and positively changed my perspective on the Freedom Trail experience. My fear of riding in the dark was transformed into a new challenge; the difficulty of hiking with my bike up sheer mountain slopes became an opportunity to overcome something really difficult; and I began to experience the pure joy of just riding in the most remote parts of South Africa. From that point onwards on the trail, I began to look forward to the difficulties that lay ahead as each represented a chance to learn, grow and engage more deeply with my surroundings. And there was no shortage of difficulties still to come. Having trudged into the second overnight support station, after 12 hours on the trail, just as the sun was setting on day 2, we woke up to cold rain on day 3. Setting out on our bikes in the predawn pitch black, with the raindrops clouding the light from our headlamps, and the cold biting through my gloves and socks necessitated that I seriously embrace the idea of desirable difficulties. By the time I reached the lunch stop at Glen Edward, I could no longer feel my feet or hands due to the combination of wet and cold. I peeled off my socks and gloves and lay on my back with my hands and feet stretched out to absorb heat from the farmer's anthracite heater in their living room, trying to thaw out. With some delicious soup in my system and some vague feeling back in my hands and feet, I set back out on the trail with my four other riding partners, who prior to the race I had never met, but with whom, due to this shared experience, I was quickly forming a strong bond. We made our way up and down mountains, through thick groves of wattle and across chilly rivers; we stopped for Coke and chips at a spaza shop in the absolute middle of nowhere and eventually, just as darkness was descending, we arrived at Masakala, a simple guest house in a rondavel in the middle of a rural African village. 

The Masakala guest house was not fancy by any stretch of the imagination: two wooden bunk beds per room, a single bathroom for all the guest staying there to share, a small spartan dining area with a pine table and chairs, and a tiny kitchen from where our hosts prepared food. We got a basic, yet comforting meal of meat, potatoes, and spinach and as I crawled into a warm bed that night with a full stomach, lying under the heavy Basutu blanket provided by our host, it struck me how, when out on the trail simple things are transformed into wonderful pleasures. Most people who partake in the Freedom Challenge are relatively well off: we have (or have had) good jobs: we can afford nice luxuries like a meal out or time away at a hotel when appropriate; generally we don’t want for much. If required to sleep in a bunk bed, or share a tiny bathroom with multiple other people, or have a cold shower in any other circumstance we would probably complain, but when out on the trail, no one complains. In fact, these simple things become wonderful pleasures in the context of the Freedom Trail. On my way to falling into a deep slumber that night, I realized that I need to be more grateful for what I have; I need to spend less time complaining and more time appreciating the simple pleasures in my life. The trail was revealing to me these authentic truths. 

The shorter day of riding on day 4 was a simple pleasure in itself, after 3 days of more than eleven hours on the trail, a day of only 8 hours was a treat. As was the sunshine when it eventually appeared that morning. We had set off in temperatures of minus 9 degrees centigrade before dawn, riding through frost ridden fields and floodplains. So when the sun eventually emerged from the east to warm things up and to reveal the beauty of the mountains surrounding us, the five of us were all extremely grateful, lapping up its rays like as though they were an addictive drug of sorts. The time ‘off’ at Malekgolonyane that afternoon was a treat: we sat on the patio in the afternoon sun, enjoying a Black Label quart or two, discussing nothing much that I can remember. Then suddenly we were awed by the arrival of the eventual winner of the race, Mike Woolnough. He had set out from Pietermaritzburg just 34 hours ago and covered the same distance it had taken us 3.5 days to cover. Mike dropped his bike on the front lawn, ate a quick meal, shared some wild stories from riding through the night, took a 15-minute nap and within 40 minutes of arriving at the support station he was back on his bike, heading for Rhodes. As he left, the five of us looked at each other, shell shocked by what we had just seen. The endurance, resilience, and commitment of these top racers is something we struggled to fathom and comprehend. Seeing it in person made it even more unbelievable than just hearing about it. 



On paper, day 5 looked quite easy; only 60 kms of distance to cover with some nice single-track descents along the way; lots to look forward to I thought. I was taken aback when one of the experienced riders in our group said we should budget 11 hours “What? That's not what the navigation narrative suggests and that’s less than 6km per hour” I argued. Lo and behold, he was right! Even though there were some epic single-track downhill sections that had all of us whooping and hollering, there were also some long, hot, difficult climbs through remote valleys and some really tricky, un-rideable descents off nothing less than a cliff face. So in the end, the eleven-hour prediction was pretty much spot on. At 4 pm we arrived at Vuvu, the overnight stop that is “famous” for its bucket showers, and home accommodations. We gathered at the local school where we got food to eat and hot water in buckets to shower. Then at around 7 pm, we were introduced to our local hosts who took us to their homes to sleep for the night. While I was skeptical and a little nervous of invading another family’s home, I was made to feel extremely welcome and comfortable, and I ended up having the best night of sleep of the whole trip -  a simple, yet extremely enjoyable pleasure.   

That good night of sleep was a godsend because, on the final day of the race, the major obstacle is Lehana’s Pass, one of the revered and highly feared sections of the Freedom Trail. Almost every person who has done this section of the Freedom Trail has a ‘Lehana’s story’. It is a historic donkey trading route up to Naude's Nek, the third highest point in South Africa. To state that there is a ‘route’ up Lehana’s is a gross overstatement. It’s just a very, very large mountain that one needs to scale with a bicycle. The so-called ‘route’ up is approximately 8.4 kilometers and takes at least 5 hours; assuming you get the navigation right (which many do not). The history of the race is littered with legendary stories of people getting stuck and lost on Lehana’s. Luckily by this stage of the race, I had come to seriously embrace the idea of ‘desirable difficulties’, and I was lapping all the ‘simple pleasures’ that the trail had to offer. The views as we scaled Lehana’s were nothing short of exquisite, the higher we ascended the further we could see; as we neared the pinnacle is felt like we were on top of the entire Drakensberg range. It was an effort just trying to take it all in. On reaching the summit, one of the members of our group reminded us that it was Father’s Day and all of us had a sentimental moment thinking about our families as we sat atop the world. The descent down to Rhodes from there was pure joy, as was the feeling of finishing this magnificent event. Yet the joy of finishing was coupled with more than just a tinge of real sadness to have to leave the trail and go back to real life. Yet the lessons of the trail are so important in real life: the lessons that difficulties foster learning, engagement and growth and that appreciating the simple things can create a whole new perspective. What more could I learn, I wonder, if I tackled the entire 2300 km of the Freedom Trail from Pietermaritzburg to Wellington, in the Race Across South Africa?



Sunday 14 July 2019

RASA 2019 Reflection - by Philip Erasmus


Freedom Challenge RASA 2019 Reflection

So what do you say after such an epic journey? The Freedom Challenge motto of Adventure Guaranteed was achieved. This was a journey that was very adventurous and I had a great adventure. My expectation from the race was fulfilled. Having done it before in 2014, I knew what I was letting myself in for and this time was even better. This year my aim was to be the first 70 year old to complete this challenge.



My original plan was to ride 19 and half days, and I managed to keep to that schedule all the way. I was greatly helped in achieving this objective by the people of Group two, with whom I departed from Pietermaritzburg on 18 June. Up to Rhodes we rode as a unit, and although there were some splits towards the end of some of the days, we always gathered together again at the end of the day and planned the next day’s start as a unit. This was reduced to six as Sarah was always only going as far as Rhodes and RG du Toit had a plane to catch!

From Rhodes the six of us stuck together up to Jakkalsfontein, where cracks stated to appear. My schedule had the next stop as Toekomst, but some of the people in the group wanted a shorter day. Willem Kamstra also decided to follow his own strategy and left us. Johan Radcliffe and myself decided to split from the other three after Struishoek and had a fantastic ride together from there on.

What can I say about Johan Radcliffe! This guy, who made it very clear at the briefing that we do not share the same religious believes, did more for me during the rest of the journey than anybody could expect from his best and most loyal friend, and we only met on 17 June for the first time! Our relationship started forging when we were the only two who decided to go around and cross the Umkomaas on the bridge and not get our feet wet by walking through the river. He is 20 years younger than me and could have left me whenever he felt like it, but he liked this “old man’s” race schedule and strategy and decided to sick with me. Every now and then he would leave me and skittle up a hill or down the road, only to wait for me to catch up again a little later. When we encountered head winds, he would spend more time in front, but we also worked together quite well on a number of occasions by rotating every kilometer. Sometimes I did not know where the strength came from, but I managed to do my share. We had a wonderful time together, stopping for snacks and chatting as we cycled along. Johan is great conversationist and loves talking. I tend to listen more, but we gelled! He would share his mussels or sardines with me and I would share my biltong and droëwors with him. We became a great team and I really enjoyed his company!



Then came Stettyns. I had my doubts and fears about getting up the last hill of Stettyns and as it turned out, it was not unfounded. By this stage, my strength was low and I really had trouble getting up that hill. A while before we got to that point, Johan saw that I was struggling with carrying my bike. He then suggested that I take my saddlebag, which weighed about 5 kg (probably the same weight as Johan’s rucksack), off and he stuffed it into his rucksack and carried it for the rest of the way. During the first half of the final hill, Johan would carry his bike some way up the hill, leave it there and then come back and take my bike up to his bike, while I struggle up the hill. This carried on until we were half way up, when Leon Erasmus, my brother’s son and a racing snake who joined us at 02:00 that morning, appeared on top of the hill. He directed us, but seeing how I was struggling, came down and carried my bike up the rest of the way. I am not sure if I would have made it up that hill without this help!

Leon Erasmus said that he would stay with me once he caught up with me and was true to his word. It is a bit of a shame that it only happened at the top of Stettyns as I would have loved to spend more time in his company, but it was a great joy to do the last number of kilometers in one another’s company and cross the finish line together. It must also have been a great feeling for my brother to be able to witness and experience this.



The low point of my journey was when I crashed on the hill down towards Killian Pass just before Rossouw. That could have ended my race, but I came through with only a brased knee and no headlight. Here I must thank Harko de Boer, who lent me his second light for the rest of the journey.

At the end of something as mammoth as this, there must be some thank yous! The first must go to my wonderful wife Sue, who was at the other end of the line every night when we had cell phone or wi-fi and we could phone her. Initially she was not too keen on me doing this grueling race again, but after I completed it she said she was glad I did it and that she was proud of what I achieved! Her encouragement carried me daily. Also all the people on my WhatsApp Group with their positive commentary! That helped me to make sure I do not disappoint them. The race organisers for putting up and excellent event again. We were blessed with the most wonderful weather! We had a number of difficult days with the wind, but generally the weather was just about perfect. There were a number of days when I just had to hang in there and give my best to survive! My motto then was "we shall prevail" and prevailed we did!

I must also thank the Lord Jesus Christ for giving me the strength; faith and self believe to achieve this journey. I worked out a schedule and in spite of some very difficult days, managed to keep to it right to the end.

Total time 19 days 13 hours 55 minutes; total riding time 247 hours 34 minutes; total distance 2,168 kilometers; 33,195 meters of climbing; average speed 8.74 k.p.h.; fastest day 11.92 from Willowmore to Prince Albert; slowest day 3,62 from Trouthaven to Diemersfontein via Stettynskloof; longest day 170 km from Kudukaya, Cambria to Willowmore at 170 km; shortest day Hadley to Kudukaya via the Osseberg and Grootriver at 48 km, which was also to second slowest day; lonest day 16 hours 28 minutes from Prince Albert to Rouxpos via Gamkaskloof and the Ladder; shortest day 8 hours 9 minutes from Vuvu to Rhodes via Mcambalala and Naudesnek Pass at 8 hours and 9 minutes.





Wednesday 26 June 2019

RTR – the race that loses its young - by Carlo Gonzaga

 More musings from a novice



“Are you joking? Two hundred metres? Is that all we missed it by?”

In a bike race that’s 475km long, with 13’000 metres of vertical ascent that’s what it came down to. Two. Hundred. Metres. If I could, I would have cried. But I couldn’t. The tears would have frozen my eyelids shut. Quite ridiculous really.

‘Ridiculous’ is probably the appropriate description of the Freedom Challenge in general and the Race to Rhodes specifically. The Freedom Challenge is a 2300km race across South Africa that takes place in South Africa’s winter months. The Race to Rhodes follows the first 475km, which, in the scheme of things, doesn’t sound like a big deal. But it is.

 The general format 
This race is categorised as a mountain bike race. Having now completed this event this categorisation feels a little like classifying both apples and tomatoes as fruits – technically correct but obviously wrong. The race is unique in quite in a few ways. It describes itself as a ‘non-stop, self-sufficient and, self-navigated’ mountain bike race. Like much of life the devil is in the detail and facts do matter.

The race starts at the doors of the Pietermaritzburg city hall and ends in the tiny village of Rhodes, almost at the foot of South Africa’s highest peak, Ben Macdhui. As the F16 flies it’s 287km and google tells me it’s about a seven-hour drive by car. So far, so good. Obviously, we are piloting neither and are told it’s 475km, minimum. “Urm… what’s this minimum story” you ask, in the same tone as one of the “rights reserved” legal letters. That would be a very good question to ask.

The ‘mandatory’ (read: you must follow this line or be disqualified) route to Rhodes is hand drawn with a thin green marking pen across 18 A3-size paper contour maps. I repeat: Eighteen. Paper. Maps. Until March this year I couldn’t remember what was on a contour map and was surprised that there are two north arrows on such map, not pointing the same way. I would try and explain the ‘two norths’ thing but really cannot.

If we follow that thin green line diligently, we should clock up 475km. That’s highly unlikely as the rules prohibit the use of any form of GPS device. No Google maps. No Garmin. Not even phone-a-friend to try and direct you left or right. Getting lost is an absolute certainty. Consequently, the 475km in the brochure is really just a guideline. It would be reasonable to think that, as a consequence of this prohibition, the route would follow large, well-marked roads. This race is many things – but, as I’ve come to learn, ‘reasonable’ is not one of them. To add more weight to your map-filled in-tray there are 11 pages of written narratives that are meant to support these maps. These narratives contain gems like “Put your bike down and follow one of these tracks for about 20 metres. You should find a jeep track in the bushes. Retrieve your bike and follow the jeep track across the base of the spur.” I was fully expecting to find a mall with a Spur Steak Ranch at the end of this jeep track. And my absolute favourite… “This is then followed by an equally ridiculous 400 metre climb”. Their words, not mine. So… “No” to following large well-marked roads.

When I received my 18 A3 maps and read the narratives for the first time I ‘kakked’ my chamois. The green line follows cattle paths, an assortment of tracks, and some roads. Often it simply asks you to follow geographical features like mountain ridges, dongas or rivers. For enhanced entertainment the line crosses more than ten rivers (not where the bridges are) and goes up or down a handful of sheer cliffs. (I’ve learned the closer the contour lines to each other, the steeper the cliff. Good to know.) Often there is a track on the map but, rather disturbingly, no such thing on the ground. Equally as often there is one track on the map and seventeen on the ground. I asked a mate who had done the race for some info and he sent me 84 emails with over 200 attachments. Asking for some in-person guidance you got pearlers like “Turn right at the apple tree. What apple tree Dave? Someone ate an apple & dropped the pips there last year, there should be an apple tree there this year.” Turn left at the “blue house” or at the “edge of the plantation” occur frequently. As it turns out people paint their houses and plantations get harvested, quite regularly. And then, obviously if you think about it, cattle tend to be quite unconcerned with keeping to the same path the surveyor-general saw when he plotted the contour maps 15 years ago. And that’s just the “self-navigated part”.

The race is also “self-supported”. That means you carry everything you may need for about 5 days on your person or your bike. You are expected to finish with the equipment your started. Presumably, you are also expected to finish with the same body you started. The rules are not specific in this regard. You may not receive any outside support while on route or you will face disqualification or a time penalty. If your bike breaks in half you are expected to fix it with the tools at hand which are most commonly trees, cattle, and rivers. If you break in half, you are expected to fix yourself. There isn’t medical assistance on route. Sure, you can call a doctor, but unless his advice is to cut your losses and beat yourself to death with your own phone you may have to do the stitching yourself. Some participants actually carry suture kits. In the longer, 2300km event, most carry antibiotics. Stories abound of broken bike frames splinted together with branches and saddles held in place with fence wire. I was even taught that you can ‘weld’ with the foil cap of a wine bottle and a lighter. After downing said bottle of wine, I suppose anything is possible. While you may use “commercially available” resources this is a rather moot concession in the rules as the track is in rural, mountainous, South Africa for much of the time. About the best you’ll get is a shepherd or herdsman. He won’t speak your language, even if you speak his. If you’re lucky he’ll have a horse. If you’re unlucky he’ll have six and a half hungry dogs.

Don’t expect water tables with cheering wives’ or children filling your water bottles. Instead, expect community taps or streams to fill your bottles and the odd informal traders selling beer, warm coke or Chinese nik-naks. There are five checkpoints on route that you must check into. Ideally you should check out of them as well. These are mostly community operated lodgings located in villages, or more often, in the sticks somewhere. Some of them don’t have electricity and a couple don’t even have running water. Lodgings are modest by normal standards, but seven-star when you’ve got 300km and 8000m of climbing in you. At the last checkpoint, at a modest village labelled on the maps as ‘Vuvu’, you will sleep in the huts of the local residents, who will move out of their dwelling for the night. Your dinner will be served in the office of the head of department at the local junior secondary school. You will, as a rite of passage on the trail, freeze your saddle sores off if you attempt an evening bucket shower in Vuvu. True story, no embellishment. There is a passing reference to inclement weather in the rules. The clue to look out for is in the mandatory clothing requirements of ‘base layers, other layers, waterproof layers and emergency blankets’. The route tops out at about 2600m. This is well into snow territory

when the conditions are right. Or wrong if you’re on a bike. This year we recorded -8 degrees and it has been known to get well below -15 degrees. Not Fahrenheit – the other one. This year (and apparently in many years) the wind was gusting up to 80 kilometres an hour. Snow in a gale becomes sleet. Dust particles become birdshot. Your sense of humour disappears quicker than a politicians’ promises after election day. This year riders had to look out for steel roof sheeting that had become airborne. I’ve seen videos of bicycles being lifted off the ground as riders grimly hold onto to the handlebar. If you see men peeing on their shifter cables, it’s because they’ve become frozen.

If I were honestly marketing the race to newcomers, it would go something like: “Come and join our Race to Rhodes. You’ll definitely get lost, most likely in the dark and probably in sub-zero temperatures. We hope you’ll make it through all the river crossing and not fall down a cliff. You will be wet. It will be fun. As a midfielder you’ll be riding about 8-12 hours between support stations so you should be able to carry that much food and water with you. You must also carry all your own clothing, medical kits and bike spares for any eventuality. Be mindful with baggage as you will have to pick your bike up and over fences and should be prepared to hike up cliffs with your bike on your back. It will be fun. As there is no way to get a motor vehicle to many parts of the route please ensure you have airborne medical evacuation as part of your medical insurance. That will not be fun.” 5:00am. 71 hrs since departure. Top of Lehanas. Middle Earth, so it seems. Knees tucked into my chest. Lips pursed. Breathing shallow to limit the cold air into my already chilled lungs. I am lying on my right side directly on the ground, in what probably looks like the ‘foetal’ position. I am shivering, almost uncontrollably, but not quite. My eyes squint through foggy lenses into the moonlit night. My ears are filled with the continuous crackle, pop, and hiss of three space blankets fluttering in the icy wind, anchored only by a hand, a foot, or some other bodily appendage of their owners. It’s around five in the morning and my handlebar mounted temperature gauge looks like its reading minus-four- point-something Celsius. I would try and get a better look but the batteries in my helmet mounted light seem to have lost their amps, like we have lost our bearings.

We’re at the top of Lehanas ‘Pass’. That much we know. We’re about 35km, or two-and-a half hours from the end. This we also know. What we don’t know is exactly where we are. Therefore, we can’t be exactly sure of where we need to go. Maddingly, we know the track we need to find is so close. So. Damn. Close.

It’s been seventy-one hours since we left Pietermaritzburg, and we’re around 440km down the official track. Myself and my two travelling companions have had no more than four hours sleep in total since our city hal departure three days ago. Our last water and food refill was twelve hours ago.

Half an hour earlier we were walking around in circles looking for the track that would take us off this exposed icy plateau. In one last gasp attempt to locate our exit, we each forge out a few hundred metres in opposite directions. Our lights, batteries weakened by the cold, tentatively prod the darkness ahead. The darkness gives no quarter, gives no inch. We reconvene once again. No good news. None of us find the road we intuitively know is there. Too tired and cold to think through the problem we abandon our joint quest to finish the race in under three days. To achieve that we needed to find that road by 3:30am, latest. Since we’re no longer cycling, our sweaty cycling kit starts to freeze in the increasingly stronger

wind. We don all our remaining clothing, four or five layers in total, including that damned space blanket, and decide to bunker down until the sun comes up. Lying on the ground, I recall thinking to myself that this is probably how people die in the cold. They just… well… they… just… lie there…. and, er, …. die. No fanfare, no last wishes, no dramatic rushes to save yourself. Just a very, very long sleep.

Lehanas Pass is legend on the trail. The adventures birthed on Lehanas generally secure you a front row at the bar, drinks included. Why it’s called a ‘pass’ is still somewhat lost on me. There is no road. Not even remnants of a road. In fact, there could never have been a road as the route required to traverse the 8,4km from base to peak requires a careful balancing act on the spine of a mountain range. It’s a venus fly trap. It’s a con artist. She is heart achingly beautiful in photos. Gorgeously smooth from google earth. I sound smitten. She draws you in. And then she’s Glenn Close and bunnies. She’s Hannibal Lecter making dinner, for one. It seems that Lehanas has a score to settle with almost all riders. In those 8,4km you will ascend 1000 metres. That’s nearly the same as the last push to the summit up Kilimanjaro. Except you’re the porter with a bicycle. Gradients exceed 40% and the upper reaches require scrambling up ledges that are head height. On a particularly steep windswept section I could do no better than flatten myself against the grassy, rock strewn slope, face into the ground. And sort of leopard crawl with two legs and one arm, the other securing my bike to my back. On one steep section Pieter was throwing his bike up the hill and then stepping up. The wind on Lehanas is something to behold. It doesn’t ‘blow’. It roars up its slopes like the death charge of a wounded lion – you hear the grunts but can’t see the lion until the last second. It tears through shrubs and trees, branches snapping back like mortars above Normandy. It clutches at your clothing and your bike. It’s like getting in a boxing ring with Sugar Ray Leonard in his prime. The punches come from nowhere but are everywhere. I have had riders tell me of having their bikes ripped from their grip by the wind and having to crawl down to retrieve them. A few riders have actually been trapped on the mountain, unable to crest the summit for the ferocity of the wind. For a reason unknown to me there is a blue container at the summit. One year, riders had to break into it, seeking refuge. When they wanted to leave, Lehanas had the last laugh. They were locked inside for an hour or so, unable to open the door. Did I mention that, through all this gradient, wind and weather, you have to carry your bike? You do. Unavoidable really. How do you train to carry your bike up a 40% rocky incline; in -3 degrees centigrade, in a gusting, 100kph wind? If you know, do tell.

At about 6:30am the darkness finally begins to recede. First, the ridgelines of the surrounding mountains show themselves in monochrome silhouette. At this point the temperature always drops a few more digits. I am standing now, space blanket wrapped twice around my torso. Still shivering. Henry and Pieter are stoically holding onto their fluttering space blankets, still grounded. As the light pushes the darkness away, I start to make out a straight-ish line in the distance. Not too far – about two hundred metres. A few minutes pass. You must be joking? That straight line is the road.

That’s the thing with being lost. One moment you are lost. And, eventually, at some other moment you are instantly un-lost. You don’t gradually un-lose yourself. You either know where you are, or you don’t.

10pm. 15hours from the start. The Wall.

I am walking down a hill I’ve just pushed up. I am shouting “Hello” at darkened rural houses. I am hopeful that my waking someone up will somehow be forgiven because I have done so with a “Hello”. Dogs bark, which I’m happy for. I figure ‘barks’ plus ‘hello’ should get someone’s’ attention. Finally, I see a light in a window of a small brick one-roomed building. I start with “Hello” in conversational tone. After escalating my conversational “Hello” to a rather hysterical ‘HAAALLOOOWW’, I advance toward the lit window. Mercifully the dog doesn’t eat me, and the resident doesn’t think I’m an intruder. As we try to bridge the language gap, he points frantically up the road I’ve just pushed down, and supports this gesturing with “Straaait, Straaait”. At that point I see two lights walking up the road. Ok… the lights aren’t really walking – they’re attached to the bikes of Peter and Henry. We’ve been riding a few minutes apart for the last 15 hours. I dash out the yard, thanking the local who is still gesturing and shouting “Straaait”. Henry and Pieter have done this four times between them and they must know the route. I ask if I can ride with them a bit. Three navigators are better than one. Or so you’d think.

Two hours later we finally acknowledge we’re lost. We cannot pinpoint where we are on the paper maps. We’ve asked more local residents. Language is a problem. I must learn Zulu. We have travelled about 5,3km on an incorrect road, most of which has been uphill. We round a corner and Pieter correctly concludes that we are going in the exact opposite direction that we’re meant to be going in. We round another corner, this time in the right direction, but facing a steep uphill. The ‘protocol’ for getting un-lost is retracing your steps until you can pinpoint where you are on a map. Not wanting to scale that climb, just to have to come down it, we sagely agree to do the adult thing and acknowledge our mistake and go back down the 5,3km we have just come up. Given the now almost zero temperatures we stop to layer up for the descent. I record a video on my phone. 20 minutes later, at the base of the climb we find our error: just metres up from where I met Peter and Henry the good road breaks left, with a track continuing straight to a rock-infested section referred to as ‘The Wall’ by riders. It is un-rideable which is the clue that tells us we are on the right track. Days later, after the race, I review our GPS tracks that the race office gives me access to. The point at which we turned around, after 2 hours and 5,3km of uphill, was just two hundred metres from the road that we were meant to be on. We had taken the vehicular road that bypasses the un-rideable section we call The Wall. If we had stayed on it, we would have re- joined above the un-rideable section and been hi-five-ing and back-slapping at our genius navigation. This sounds made up. It is not. I have pictures. Two hundred metres. Again.



“Race office, we have a problem”

Per the rules you are allowed seven days to complete the course. Sounds like a long time for just 475km. Until you consider that you continuously stop to check your maps; the path is largely on tracks and grassland; and has its fair share of un-rideable sections. Compounding matters there’s the hills - by the time you’ve quaffed your first G&T in Rhodes you will have ascended the equivalent of Mt. Everest one and a half times. Of the 49 starters in this year’s edition just two finished in under three days. Only six finished in under five days. Of the eight that never made it to Rhodes, one was washed down a river he was crossing. And he wasn’t on a boat at the time.

At race briefing it became apparent there were three other riders with a sub three-day game plan, including myself. This was my first time so my ambitious plan could be blamed on first-time stupidity. Roger was on a single speed, rigid bike. Think about that for a moment. I subsequently learned he is a plastic surgeon, so I blame his crazy attempt on second-hand anaesthesia inhalation. I don’t know if that’s physiologically possible, but I hope you get my point. Peter and Henry had narrowly missed a sub three-day attempt previously and their plan was fuelled mostly by revenge.

There is a sub two-day strategy, but that is currently reserved for just one rider. Just five riders have ever managed under 2,5 days. A veteran of The Trail, Mike Woolnough was on track for a sub-two this year until the sleep monsters and weather tightened their grip. To achieve sub three days, you essentially must ride double the time of other riders, each day. Conceptually not difficult to grasp, but there are a couple of critical pinch points to consider. First, you probably need to ride the first 200km to the remote lodge in Nstekeni Nature Reserve in one go. That comes with 6300m of climbing. You should get that done in about 18 hours, leaving you with a couple hours to sleep, eat and consider other necessities before mounting your steed at around 4:30. A warm up, so to speak. Assuming you won’t get too lost during the day you’ll have the privilege of negotiating some tricky night-time navigation. If that goes ok-ish you’ll have the morning to get to Vuvu. Its highly desirable to get past Vuvu and to the foot of Lehanas in daylight so you can get your bearings on that little blue container 8,4km away. If you get that right, you’ll get to Rhodes about in about 2 days and 15 hours. Like Roger did. Be like Roger.

Don’t be like us.

Leaving Vuvu at 5pm already put us on the backfoot as we’d only get to Lehanas at around 6pm. It’s darkest just after the sun is fully tucked away and the moon isn’t quite shiny yet, making it difficult to get bearing on aforementioned blue container. So, in what history will judge as a… mmm... err…. let’s just go with ‘kak’ decision, we decided to try an alternate route up Lehanas. This involves not actually going up Lehanas at all but finding an adjacent mountain to the west and scaling that instead. Just writing that plan down sounds bad. Trust me though, it was a good idea at the time. No – beers were not involved.
Roll forward four hours. We’re back at the foot of Lehanas, around 10pm. We found the mountain to the west. We even found the track on the mountain to the west we were meant to be on. For 4km. Then we ran out of track, skill, experience, and humour. We scribbled messages in the ground. We found the southern cross. We studied our maps and compasses. Still only 4km progress in three hours. At about 9pm we called the race office. “We have a problem”. To his credit and our good fortune Chris Fisher, race director, took our call. He advised us, as he had previously, to try Lehanas instead. I don’t even think he said “I told you so”. Mountain 1 – Three Musketeers 0.
16 hours 33 minutes. That’s how long it took us to reach Rhodes from Vuvu. 51km according to the maps. 75 hours, 33 minutes since we had city hall in our rear-view mirrors. Four hours sleep. And we missed our plan by 3 hours 33 minutes. Two hundred metres. Twice.

The Thing

But here’s the thing: I feel fulfilled. Energised. Richer for the experience. Even taller. I inhaled more just than a few beers and slept for a week after. Sure, I got lost for some 9 hours of the 75 hours I was on the trail, without which I would have smashed my goal. But that would be too easy. I now value my first time on The Trail. To grow physically you need to stress your body and then, during rest, the body adapts to a new expectation, becoming stronger through each cycle of rest. It’s the rest after the physical activity that makes you stronger.

The Trail under race conditions has more than its fair share of physical stresses. These you will overcome, and be stronger for, with rest and few glasses of wine. It’s the stresses The Trail places on your mind, your spirit, your self, that are uniquely valuable. These don’t happen at the gym, a morning run, or in board meetings.

Getting lost is part of life. It happens all the time to us across multiple spheres. In relationships, business, strategy. With our families. Most often we are in denial about being lost at all. We convince ourselves we are on track. On the trail you are either lost or not. There is no ‘convincing’ yourself. You are forced to face reality; admit to being lost; and start the process of finding your way back. This is the stress. When you find the track, as you will, you will be mentally and spiritually stronger for it. You will be more appreciative of the need to pay attention next time. To be engaged with your surroundings. To prepare better. To be present. You will be more willing to help others, for one day you may need the help of others. These are my lessons from Lehanas.

The Trail is filled with old-school adventure. You will genuinely scramble down cliff faces. You will drop your bike down 3m vertical dongas. You may get washed down a river. You will feel inspired and invincible when you successfully navigate your way at night through the three villages to Queen Mercy; or ride ‘flat-box’ down red-earth wattle strips on the Mpharane ridge on a crisp, cloudless, blue-sky day. You will turn around and look down the section you have portaged up and resist patting yourself on the back. You may even have the need to find the Southern Cross because you lost your compass. You will humbly push your bike up, and down, hills. You will crest the Umkomaas valley and get goose bumps from the view before you descend an impossibly steep track. You will thrash your way through thorn trees, wattles and river debris. All while pulling, pushing, and dragging your bike. Always forward. Always forward.

Most of all, the trail is filled with people. Their aspirations. Their stories. The giant Dalu Ncobo and his wife, Gladys, at Nstekeni. He sleeps with “one eye open” and made us breakfast - or was it dinner - at 2am. Sheila and Charles Raven, their daughter Kerry - hosting cyclists around the clock for three continuous weeks at their home in Glen Edward. The never-ending stories from Dana and Ian Waddilove, whose brother, David, founded the Freedom Challenge in 2004. The giant, syrupy vetkoek that Buhle makes at the modest Masakala support station. The residents of Vuvu who actually give up their bed for cyclists. The children who run next to you for kilometres, shouting “Where are you going? What is your name?”. The spaza shop owners for whom the race represents a mid-year Christmas rush. There is the lone horseman who points to where you should be going and sometimes, seeing the exhaustion written in, and on you, leads you to your path.

This is The Race to Rhodes. This is the Freedom Challenge.